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Truffle Hunting in Tuscany, Where the Pigs Have Been Replaced

At San Gimignano’s Marronaia estate, a dog named Lily does the digging and, unlike a pig, hands over the truffle.

I knew two things when I went truffle hunting: that those edible underground fungi are delicious, and that portly pigs snort around in woods to find them. One of those bits of information turned out to be wrong. Yes, you can forage for truffles in the Pacific Northwest and, yes, I had watched the wildly underrated Nicolas Cage movie Pig too many times. But the rarer, more delectable species of truffle grows in Europe.

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After a brief walking tour of the Marronaia estate in San Gimignano on a lovely late-summer day, I set off into the oak trees, accompanied by a guide and Lily, a Lagotto Romagnolo. She was exceptionally friendly, which may be a predictable result of having a life in........

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