I have always wondered whether The Compleat Angler, Izaak Walton’s piscine classic, would have enjoyed its wide and longstanding recognition absent the antique spelling “compleat.” I somehow suspect that a book titled The Complete Angler would not have made the same impression, especially on modern readers. First published in 1653, the book went through many editions in Walton’s life and after. It is a charming, leisurely guide, “not unworthy,” as its original title page observed, “the peruſal of moſt Anglers.” (Those long “s”es add a little something, don’t you agree?) It is said that Walton, a staunch anti-Cromwellian, good fellow, was particularly fond of the saying “Study to be quiet.” The Compleat Angler, ambling about the River Dove between Staffordshire and Derbyshire, is an aid to that ambition.

“Compleat,” like its somewhat sterner twin “complete,” comes from the Latin verb compleo, which means to finish, achieve, consummate, fill up. With respect to drink, it means to satisfy or to sate. I’d wager the late English wine writer Cyril Ray had both that etymology and Walton’s memorable orthography in mind when he embarked on his long-running series of anthologies The Compleat Imbiber. The first volume, consisting of some 40 short pieces – essays,........

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