Proust can keep his soggy madeleine. For me the word ‘Prague’ is a trigger of memory like no other. It stirs me up like some plaintive half-heard tune, or the faint scent of lavender in sheets left folded for years.

Evil news from Prague, in another stuffy August long ago, turned my world over completely. This was 1968, a year of wonders, none of them very nice, which will not easily leave my recollection. It was the year I joined a Trotskyist sect. It was the year I punched a man (in self defence). It was the year I attended my first violent raucous demonstration, against the war in Vietnam, with the police horses thundering through the March mud in Grosvenor Square. A few weeks later Paris was full of tear gas and flying cobblestones, and how I wished I was there. It was an age when, if your head was not hot, you weren’t thinking or fully alive. I was on the wrong side – and I was on the right side. I will never be able to unscramble the messy omelette of opinions I then held, to separate the good from the bad.

It was the year I joined a Trotskyist sect. It was the year I punched a man (in self defence)

It was the year I joined a Trotskyist sect. It was the year I punched a man (in self defence)

Then came Prague, and the Soviet tanks flattening a brief flowering of freedom, just about this time of year. I knew, or thought I knew, that revolutionary socialism did not need to lead to the cement-headed repression of the USSR. I despised that as a tyranny and a failure. Freedom under communism was like fire under water. But what was this mysterious city, Prague?

My geography lessons had been traditional, about the Empire or the Home Islands, so that I knew much of the........

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