As dusk settles over Bharathapuzha in Thirunavaya, the historic sandbanks where the festival of Mamankam was once held, a spectacle it has never experienced before begins to unfold. A Kashi ghat-style river aarti. Flames blur into ribbons of light as priests standing on specially raised platforms swing multi-tiered brass lamps in sweeping arcs. A soundscape of bells, Sanskrit chants and drums builds in layers, turning the crowds ecstatic.

For a visitor, the ritual held as part of ‘Maha Magha Mahotsavam’, which began on........

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