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Why are Scots so embarrassed by their own food heritage?

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As Scots, self-deprecation is our default factory setting. The reaction to the bid for UNESCO recognition of the morning roll was, in that sense, frustratingly predictable.

It was the backing of the Scottish Greens which really sparked the sneers, of course, with accusations of political point-scoring quickly overshadowing years of work to champion Scotland’s food heritage.

Below these opinion columns, comment sections raged, with many eager to dismiss the idea entirely on the basis that morning rolls really aren’t all that special.

The furore was fleeting, lasting only until the news cycle moved on to the next cause for heated debate. A few weeks on, however, I’m still struck by how this backlash seems representative of Scotland’s fractured relationship with its food heritage and identity.

In recent years, our nation has started to gain the standing it deserves on a global stage, elevated by our oft-lauded “natural larder” and the undeniable talent of the chefs who put it to use in their kitchens.

But are we only permitted to feel pride in our produce when it’s a slab of in-season wild venison or sustainably sourced seafood prepared to a Michelin standard in a fine-dining restaurant?

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