In a country defined by beef and a city that turned its back on the river, Gabriel Oggero set out to rewrite history. More than 20 years ago, when few Argentines ate seafood — let alone oysters — he opened Crizia with an ambitious goal: bringing the Argentine Sea to Buenos Aires tables.

It paid off. Crizia has since become one of the country’s leading seafood restaurants, earning a red Michelin Star in 2025 for its “exceptional cuisine” and a Green Star for its commitment to sustainability for the second consecutive year. It also ranked No. 40 in the latest edition of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Its signature tasting menu, Puro Mar (“Pure Sea”), is a multi-course journey through Argentina’s diverse waters, featuring everything from oysters to seaweed. The regular menu also includes prawns from Puerto Madryn, king crab from Ushuaia, squid from Malvinas Islands, and Patagonian toothfish from Antarctic waters.

Crizia’s elegant Palermo dining room also features an oyster bar, an open kitchen and a striking four-story vertical wine cellar with more than 15,000 bottles.

Oggero welcomed the Buenos Aires Herald in his culinary stronghold to discuss the city’s evolving dining scene, his early years and his decision to champion Argentine seafood. The interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.

What led you to gastronomy?

My family is deeply rooted in the restaurant business. My father was born in a tiny town in Santa Fe province. When he was very young, he moved to Buenos Aires and found work as a kitchen assistant for a catering company. He worked his way up and eventually started his own catering business for the Jewish community, an iconic company that operated in Buenos Aires for 55 years, called *El Ciervo de Oro* (“The Golden Deer”) 

I started working with him when I was very young. By the time I was 10, I’d join him after school. That’s how I discovered my vocation. At 14, I began helping in the pastry kitchen, where I worked until I was 18. Then I moved into the savory kitchen and started the culinary career that I’ve followed ever since.

Did you always have the idea of opening your own restaurant?

I always dreamed of having my own restaurant. In 2004, after traveling extensively and learning about gastronomy abroad, a friend told me........

© Buenos Aires Herald