The troubled restaurant scene in Buenos Aires is nevertheless sprouting in unexpected directions. The Herald recently tried a well-established chef’s new retro-inspired restaurant in Retiro, a quiet bistro in Colegiales, a lively Palermo neo-parrilla and a rule-breaking slider joint. 

Leaning into comfort, precision and personality, these recent openings prove the Buenos Aires food scene still has plenty left to offer.

Libertador 405Everyday, noon to 3 p.m.@chuchu.ba 

Right next to the Railway Museum on Libertador avenue in Retiro, Chuchú (yes, as in “choo-choo”) is the new venture of chef Facundo Kelemen, the mind behind neo bodegón Mengano, a Michelin Bib Gourmand. There, Kelemen already revamped classic dishes through fine dining presentations. Now, he proved he can also deliver a classic porteño menu with pitch-perfect techniques and great service. 

A bold move in terms of location, the place will surely stand as a 140-pax oasis — especially its private terrace — within a rather isolated area of Retiro, unless you arrive by car. 

Conceived as a family-friendly place, Chuchú’s interior blends the feeling of an American diner with the ease of a neighborhood restaurant — one where you can spot the old Presidential train car through the window, that is. 

Comfort food is the closest idea we can use to describe bodegones, and in Chuchú they put the stress on the comfort part. So, expect huge milanesas (chicken or bife de chorizo), hearty pasta — the barbecue ragú and bechamel lasagna can knock you down — classic parrilla cuts — like asado banderita, entraña and vacío — and a........

© Buenos Aires Herald