The news that Gordon Ramsay – that most self-publicising of restaurateurs – has increased service charges at his Lucky Cat restaurant in the City should strike terror into anyone who cares about the future of the hospitality industry.

Ramsay introduced a 20 per cent charge, rather than the industry standard of 12.5 per cent or (increasingly) 15 per cent, for the seasonal special menus that the restaurant offered last year. The chef – who claims to have invested £20 million of his own money into the Asian-influenced restaurant – has also stated publicly of Lucky Cat, that ‘if it was to fail, I’m fucked.’

What has led to resentment here, shown by Ramsay’s hiked charges, is the way in which often mediocre service must be rewarded as if by right, unless the diner wants to face huge embarrassment for their supposed meanness

What has led to resentment here, shown by Ramsay’s hiked charges, is the way in which often mediocre service must be rewarded as if by right, unless the diner wants to face huge embarrassment for their supposed meanness

The question of whether US-level service charges are necessary is one that anyone who cares about going out to eat should be watching closely.

A meal, whether at a Michelin-starred restaurant or humbler chain, is now far more expensive than it........

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