FROM the wealth of cooking shows on television, Great British Menu has always been my favourite.

For those unfamiliar, it’s a high-stakes competition where top chefs from across the UK compete for the chance to cook at a prestigious final banquet.

Each year brings a new brief, pushing chefs to create dishes that are not only technically impressive but rooted in storytelling, often resulting in some of the most inventive food on TV.

Now in its 20th year, the competition is divided into regions, with Northern Ireland competing alongside the likes of Scotland, Wales and London and the South East – and historically, we have more than held our own.

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Some of Northern Ireland’s most respected chefs – including Niall McKenna, Chris McClurg, Chris Fearon, Shauna Froydenlund and Alex Greene – have all reached the final banquet, showcasing the depth of talent within our food scene.

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Watching local chefs shine in that environment and prove Northern Irish cooking can stand shoulder to shoulder with the very best has always been one of the most satisfying parts of the series.

Which is why the past few years have felt, well, a bit disappointing.

This is not about questioning the ability of those who have represented Northern Ireland, but Great British Menu is an exacting competition, demanding a particular level of refinement, experience and creativity.

In some cases, our chefs have been up against competitors operating at a different level – whether from Michelin-starred kitchens or with more developed, conceptual styles.

That has been reflected in recent scores, and in the fact Northern Ireland has not had a dish reach the final banquet since 2022.

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That, in itself, says something, because the issue is not a lack of talent. Northern Ireland’s food scene is thriving, with award-winning restaurants and chefs gaining recognition well beyond this island.

Yet that is not being reflected on one of the UK’s biggest culinary platforms, raising a bigger question: how are chefs being selected?

Unlike many competitions, chefs cannot apply for Great British Menu – they are scouted and invited by the production team.

So why does it feel as though Northern Ireland is not being represented by its strongest possible line-up?

While other regions regularly feature their most established chefs, Northern Ireland’s recent representatives have often felt like unexpected choices – talented, yes, but not always the most obvious contenders given the strength of the wider scene.

This matters because it creates an uneven playing field and risks giving a distorted view of what Northern Ireland’s food scene actually looks like.

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Because the talent is here – in abundance.

I’ve spoken to countless chefs producing exceptional food and building strong reputations, yet who have never been approached to take part.

For them, and for the wider industry, the exposure Great British Menu offers is significant. It can be career-defining – former competitors include Tom Kerridge, Richard Corrigan, Marcus Wareing and Tom Kitchin.

If the show is meant to celebrate the very best of British cooking, then Northern Ireland deserves to be properly represented.

© The Irish News