Before the tigers take over the streets of Thrissur, they have to be painted.

For hours, artists cover performers’ bodies in yellow, black and red stripes. Masks go on, drums begin to beat, and on the fourth day of Onam, the ‘tigers’ dance through the Kerala city, prowling and pouncing before cheering crowds.

These tigers are people, of course. But the animal they imitate has held a special place in local celebrations for generations.

The tradition is called Pulikali, meaning ‘play of the tigers’. And hundreds of kilometres away, along Karnataka’s coast, another tiger dance carries stories of fear, admiration and protection.

Together, these traditions offer a fascinating glimpse into how communities have understood and lived alongside the wildlife around them.

How did tigers become part of Onam?

Thrissur’s Pulikali is believed to be around 200 years old. Its beginnings are often traced to Sakthan Thampuran, who ruled Cochin from 1790 to 1805.

Historical accounts offer different explanations of how the dance developed, reflecting the many cultural influences that shaped Thrissur’s public celebrations.

Today, on Naalaam Onam, trained troupes gather with their bodies painted as tigers and leopards. They dance to the beats of traditional drums such as the chenda, thakil and udukku, sometimes acting out hunters pursuing tigers.

Preparing for the performance takes hours of painting and practice. For the crowds that gather in Thrissur, the result is a celebration........

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