No cars, no phone signal: Canada's ghost island where guests still check in

Once the thriving heart of Labrador's fishing industry, Battle Harbour has found new life as an island retreat with barely a trace of modern life.

Several livyers have gathered on the wharf. Sleeves rolled up, four fishermen who "live here" on this remote Labrador island are splitting cod. Behind them, suit-clad merchants and more fishers, some in waterproof oilskins, have arranged themselves for a group photo against a white clapboard building with ochre-red trim.

But our ferry approaches the wharf, something seems off. Everyone's as grey as the sky and nobody is moving.

I give my head a shake and remember that I'm arriving at a place that proudly describes itself as "nine miles from normal". So, while these fellows were alive in around 1900, when this was the saltfish capital of the world, they've since been plucked from archival photos and turned into life-sized cardboard cutouts. 

"Welcome to Battle Harbour," says Peter Bull, the executive director of the Battle Harbour Historic Trust, as we scramble off the ferry on a wooden plank.

Bull quickly runs through the practicalities. Lunch is in half an hour at 12:30. A tour starts at 13:30. An Arctic fox family lives in the old cemetery. Two historic wireless radio towers need to be saved. There's no mobile phone service and just one communal Wi-Fi spot. Sunrise comes at 06:19. Wanda Fifield will walk me to my room.

"This [is the] emergency system – you just turn this button on," Fifield says, stopping at a walkie talkie in the hallway near my room. "If there's a problem in the nighttime, if you're sick or hurt or anything, just press this square button. You tell them your problem. You tell them that you're staying at the Merchant Building because they'll need to know what cottage to go to." 

With restored wooden houses, weathered fishing stages where catches were once processed and 16 private summer residences, Battle Harbour looks remarkably well preserved. But it has been more than half a century since anyone lived here year-round, and even longer since it was the unofficial capital of Labrador.

I've got two nights to step back in time.

Getting to Battle Harbour is an adventure in itself. First, you fly to the delightfully named Happy Valley-Goose Bay in mainland Labrador, then drive for five hours along the forest-flanked Expedition 51° highway, hoping to spot a moose and yearning for an outhouse. There are no services for most of the journey.

From the wharf in Mary's Harbour, you then catch the daily passenger "ferry" for guests – a lofty name for a boat so small your luggage may be stacked in the bathroom.

When to visit: Battle Harbour is only open from June to early September. Confirm seasonal dates before booking.

Getting there: Fly to Happy Valley-Goose Bay, then drive five hours to Mary's Harbour. A passenger ferry (for overnight guests only) departs at 11:00 each day and returns at 09:00 each morning. The journey takes 60 to 75 minutes.

Staying overnight: Accommodation is in restored cottages and historic inn rooms. Two-night packages start at C$1,570 (£835; $1,106) for two people, including accommodation, return ferry transfers, meals and a guided historical tour. Taxes and gratuities are extra.

Day trips: Separate day trips are also available during the summer season. Check with the operator for current........

© BBC