‘Laws, like sausages, cease to inspire respect in proportion as we know how they are made,’ John Godfrey Saxe warned way back in 1869. His jab was really at the ugly business of law-making rather than sausage production, but it was the sausage portion of the phrase that really stuck. The same could be said to go double for doner kebabs, which – in order to create their distinctive cone-like, shaveable structure – are often significantly more processed than the banger. And now the kebab and the law have collided.

Kismet Kebabs, a manufacturer that positions itself as one of the UK’s largest doner kebab meat suppliers, pleaded guilty last month at Swansea Crown Court to fraud by false representation, when the kebabs it supplies were shown to contain as little as 10 per cent sheep meat.

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Based in Chelmsford, Kismet Kebabs advertised its kebabs as being made with up to 87 per cent lamb meat. In 2020 and 2021, Swansea Council Trading Standards began to DNA test take-away kebab meat. Following these DNA results, its officers raided the Kismet Kebabs factory in May 2021, taking further samples.

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