Orchha, a small town in Madhya Pradesh’s Niwari district, happens to be one of my go-to holiday spots. The reasons are many: Its rich history, its fascinating temples and palaces, its simple, almost-caught-in-a-time-warp pace of life and the grace with which the Betwa river undulates over the rocks.

But there is another reason to pick Orchha that lies some 17 km away, in the neighbouring state of Uttar Pradesh. You see, to reach Orchha from Delhi, you will have to get down at Jhansi. And in what looks like any other market, there is an eatery, which has my heart: Meat ka Badshah. There is, however, nothing badshahi (royal) about this nondescript, no-frills establishment. But what it does not possess in appearance, it more than makes up for in the lip-smacking keema-kaleji. It is a concoction of minced meat and pieces of liver, served with roomali roti. I first had it in 2018, and eight years on, I have not been able to find anything that matches its perfection.

The keema-kaleji in Jhansi is just one example of the........

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