If you’re environmentally conscious, you’re likely aware that dying clothes is bad for the planet. In China and Bangladesh, rivers near manufacturing hubs run black due to dyes that pollute and poison the water. But it gets worse. Dyes also accelerate global warming: 99% of all dyes are made using fossil fuels, and producing them emits 200 million tons of carbon dioxide every year.

Dyes are all around us, from the ink in pens to the colorful pages of magazines to hair dyes. But the clothing industry, and particularly the denim sector, is a huge consumer of dyes, soaking up 2 million tons of it annually. The 3 million jeans sold every year must be dyed with indigo to give them their iconic blue hue.

But there are more environmentally friendly ways to create blue dyes. A French startup called Pili has developed a new dye from plant-based sugars that have a fraction of the carbon footprint of traditional, petroleum-based dyes. Citizens of Humanity Group, and eco-friendly luxury denim brand, has invested in Pili. Today, it is launching a new collection of Citizens of Humanity and Agolde garments that use its dyes. The striking thing about these new products is how they are indistinguishable from traditionally-dyed garments.

Now, the question is whether the rest of the industry will rally around this new technology, which is currently more expensive than traditional dyes. Citizens of Humanity says it costs $1.75 per pair of jeans to use Pili, while synthetic dyes cost just pennies. This is an obstacle for fast fashion brands that compete on price. But over time, Pili hopes to drive down its prices. “It will take time to bring down the cost of these dyes,” says Jérémie Blache, CEO of Pili. “That’s why it is so important to have early adopters who are willing to invest in........

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