Visiting Israel for 2.5 days is a foolish thing to do, under the best of circumstances. These days, some individuals – especially those who rely on (legacy) media – would say it’s too intense, bordering on insane. But, after an absence of more than a decade, arriving in a country in the throes of war, with nearly 60 hostages still held captive in Gaza, and under the daily threat of rockets and missiles, I was under no illusions; even though I had lived and traveled there often and had a ticket for October 8, 2023, this journey would be unlike any other.

Not surprisingly, Tel Aviv was drenched in sunshine, and no less vibrant than it has ever been, humming with energy and activity. The beaches, cafes, restaurants spilled over with Israelis and tourists of every age, ethnicity and language. Cars, buses, scooters, bicycles, delivery bikes and cabs clogged up many intersections, even though many streets were blocked off due to the construction of the light rail system. Trees were in bloom, music was in the air and oversized fluorescent-colored notices for cultural events were pasted on surfaces everywhere. Tel Aviv thrums with the unmistakable pulse of lives intentionally-lived.

And yet, everything this time is different. You step off the plane, walk through the spacious expanses of Ben Gurion Airport, and reach the cavernous stone-and-glass hallway, where........

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