It’s the largest city in Europe, spans two continents, has been the capital of three mighty empires – Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman – and is visited each year by some 20 million tourists. These days – and I’m only guessing here based on the scores of battered, bloodied and bandaged scalps I spotted – it’s also the hair transplant capital of the world. Little wonder so many choose to come here for their cosmetic ‘enhancements’ (or ‘maimings’ depending on your view): if there’s one city that understands reinvention, it’s this one.

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I’m talking, of course, of Istanbul where continents and cultures, Christianity and Islam collide. To my shame, I’d never been before but, crikey, I loved it. I can’t recall when last I was so smitten by a city – and so swiftly.

Everyone I know has visited Istanbul, so I wasn’t short of advice of where to go and what to do. And, since dispensing advice and telling me where to go and what to do is apparently Mrs Ray’s sole reason for living, I allowed her to tag along, too.

Everyone told us to go in winter to avoid the crowds. So we did, staying at the deliciously swish Rixos Tersane. The hotel is vast........

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