Features | Environment | Southeast Asia

In Cambodia, Floating Houses Are Stuck Aground as Climate Change Takes Hold

Researchers are seeing a change in Cambodian weather patterns as climate change takes hold across the region.

Sok Rina, 63, sits under her high-stilted house in Pou village, in Cambodia’s Siem Reap province, on July 22, 2026. In past wet seasons, the area would already be flooded.

Siem Reap province, Cambodia — A 63-year-old woman watched her two grandchildren play on dry ground beneath her high-stilted house in mid-July.

By this time of the year, Pou village in Siem Reap province is normally flooded as the nearby Tonle Sap lake rises and expands with the monsoon. Stilted houses would be perched over the water, while floating houses drift on the bloated river.

When Sok Rina was young, the water would begin rising in June, flooding the riverbank and surrounding forests by July. The floodwaters would become rich with fish, supporting the livelihoods of villages on the water.

Recently, however, the Tonle Sap has been low, year after year.

Researchers are seeing a change in Cambodian weather patterns as climate change takes hold across the world. The traditional monsoon season in June and July appears to be weakening, even as intense easterly storms return in September and October.

At the same time as weather patterns are changing, more than 200 large dams are planned, completed, or under construction in the lower Mekong basin. Together, climate change and hydropower dams are restricting the flow of water into the Tonle Sap.

And without water, there’s no fish. In Siem Reap province, residents of Pou, Me Chrey and Chong Khneas villages say they are facing severe challenges to their survival.

Cheim Oeurn, 40, caught only about one kilogram of fish one July morning. It was all small climbing perch and moonlight gourami, which have almost no market value.

The Sangkae river is too low for fish to spawn in the flooded forests around Tonle Sap, he said. Rising water temperatures in shallow areas also threaten to destroy fish eggs.

“If there is a lot of water, there will be more fish; as the water rises, fish will breed. Less water means fewer fish,” Cheim Oeurn said.

In the past, fishers in Pou village could earn 50,000 to 100,000 riel ($12.50 to $25) daily with a 50- to 60-kilogram catch. Today, they often return with nothing of value.

In Chong Khneas village, Choum Chreb said her son had caught exactly five fish after fishing from 4 a.m. on July 23.

“He hasn’t caught any in the past three days, and today’s five fish aren’t even enough to cover the cost of gasoline,” Choum Chreb said.

The family has lived and fished on the Tonle Sap for 25 years, and this life is all they have.

“We lack land to move to,” she said. “We just earn enough to survive on the water.”

The Tonle Sap is Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, and vital to millions of livelihoods. It is connected to the Mekong River, and its flow famously reverses direction twice a year.

In the wet season, the Mekong rises and pushes water into the Tonle Sap. The lake expands and floods nearby forests – creating a unique ecosystem around the lake that supports fish spawning and local livelihoods. In the dry season, the lake drains back into a lowered Mekong River.

“The reversal is the key driver of the Mekong’s robust fisheries, making the Tonle Sap the largest inland fishery in the world,” said the Stimson Center’s Mekong Dam Monitor.

The center has observed stark changes to the region’s river systems, and this year is no different: The Tonle Sap’s reversal started about six weeks late, and the flow is much weaker than average for this time of year. The reverse flow was measured at 4 billion cubic meters, below the average of 11 billion.

Both climate change and hydropower developments have combined to disrupt Tonle Sap water levels and livelihoods.

For the past five years, June and July have had less rain than normal, said Stimson Center Southeast Asia program director Brian Eyler.

“It seems like the traditional monsoon pattern that builds at the beginning of the wet season is weakening in strength,” he said.

At the same time, some recent September and October storms had been “extremely intense,” he said, explaining that the Mekong basin’s wet season was made up of two weather patterns: the early monsoon and the later easterly storms that come from the Pacific Ocean.

Floating houses on the Tonle Sap lake in Cambodia. (Wikimedia Commons/LBM1948)

It’s during the early rains, however, that hydropower dams fill up their reservoirs. They produce electricity during the dry season by releasing stored-up water, and by the start of the wet season they are typically near-depleted.

“This all makes the expansion of the Tonle Sap Lake get off to a very weak start,” Eyler said.

This year was a case in point. “The Tonle Sap has hardly expanded and this will have a negative effect on fisheries. Just a few weeks ago, parts of the Mekong were recording all-time lows for that time of........

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