Far in Arunachal Pradesh’s eastern Himalayas, dense forests give way to bamboo and rhododendron at higher elevations, before opening into patches of mountain grassland.

This is Mishmi takin country.

The high-altitude landscape is part of the range of the Mishmi takin, one of the least-studied large mammals of the region.

With its heavy body, curved horns, shaggy coat and broad, Roman-shaped nose, the Mishmi takin (Budorcas taxicolor taxicolor) looks like a cross between a goat and a wild ox. It is found across the Mishmi Hills of Arunachal Pradesh and parts of neighbouring China and Myanmar.

For a winter traveller, the search begins in Dibang Valley, where the district headquarters, Anini, sits at about 1,970 metres.

The larger Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary covers 4,149 sq km and stretches from about 1,800 to 5,000 metres in elevation. Its landscape includes temperate forests, alpine habitats and high mountain terrain.

But finding a takin is not as simple as arriving at a viewpoint and waiting.

Follow the landscape, not just the animal

The official Dibang Valley tourism guide describes the Mishmi takin as one of the elusive large mammals of the Mishmi Hills. Its suggested takin trek follows the Dree River from Damben, about 25 km from Anini, towards the upper reaches of the valley.

The route takes 14 days, including nine days of walking through terrain with swamps and bamboo thickets. The district administration says takins are seen in larger numbers during the rainy months of June and July, although smaller herds may be found along the fringes at other times.

Winter, therefore, is less about expecting a sighting and more about understanding where the animal........

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