The secret to better summer beans
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The secret to better summer beans
Pantry staples have seasons, too
Published June 16, 2026 10:30AM (EDT)
Once I grew up just enough to start grocery shopping according to a budget — not merely the amount of cash rattling around in my wallet that week — I realized something peculiar. For some reason, whenever I reached for cheap pantry staples, I kept ending up in winter.
I’d stock up on bags of beans and rice and day-old bread and, before long, it would be July 7. The air conditioner would be groaning heroically in the window while I stood over a Dutch oven of long-simmered chili or a poor woman’s cassoulet (chicken thighs in place of duck), steadily adding heat to an apartment that already had plenty to spare.
Looking back, I think I’d accidentally fused the ingredients themselves to the preparations I most associated with them. Lentils weren’t........
