For nearly 40 years, Emeril’s restaurant in New Orleans has been one of the crown jewels of Creole cuisine—and these days it has never shined brighter. Founded in 1990 by Emeril Lagasse—after transforming the kitchen he inherited from legendary chef Paul Prudhome at nearby Commander’s Palace in the 1980s by creating what he called “new New Orleans cooking”—Emeril’s also benefited from Lagasse’s charismatic and seemingly ubiquitous TV appearances.

But when he finally gave up his toque at his flagship and namesake restaurant, there was only one chef who could follow him—Lagasse’s actual namesake, his 23-year-old son, E. J. (né Emeril John Lagasse IV) who has been head chef and co-owner for the past four years. He led a complete restaurant renovation and unveiled an entirely new menu: what was once seven courses for $95 is now thirteen courses for $295. And at just 22, he achieved something his famous father never did. Last November, when the Michelin Guide came to New Orleans for the first time, Emeril’s earned two Michelin stars (making Lagasse the youngest two-star chef in Michelin history). Emeril’s also debuted on the coveted World’s 50 Best list, where the restaurant is now No. 20 in North America.

“We're still the least expensive two-star restaurant in the country—something we did intentionally,” Lagasse tells Forbes, in the main dining room of his Warehouse District restaurant. “My dad and I have been working on this for 10 years—the idea of really taking Emeril’s and returning it to what it was opened to be.”

Emeril’s serves just 50 tables a night, but business has never been better. Under the younger Lagasse, Emeril’s has increased its revenue 167% to an estimated $5 million annually — sales driven by his stars and accolades and a new generation of diners who have rushed to get a table.

Coveted listings are part of what Lagasse describes as the “outward validation” which has made the Emeril’s revamp a buzzy success. He says, “I'm not going to sit here and tell you the accolades don't matter,” he says, “because I think each chef that........

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