It’s hard for a designer to get the world’s attention at fashion week. But a year ago, the Maison Margiela show went viral thanks, in large part, to Pat McGrath’s makeup, which made models’ skin look like it was made of glass.

The show was theatrical. Creative director John Galliano conjured a dark, ethereal universe apparently inspired by the Belle Époque of the late 1800s, when women had tightly cinched corsets, and voluminous dresses with padding that accentuated their busts and hips.

But the models didn’t look human. They looked like like otherworldly creatures, with pale skin, small lips, flushed cheeks, and a glossy sheen that made the skin look translucent. “It began with a conversation with John [Galliano] about the Seine in Paris, under moonlight,” McGrath recalls. “We envisioned porcelain dolls coming to life, merging ethereal beauty with a sense of wonder. We wanted to create something that had never been seen before.”

In the days after........

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