A defense of Thanksgiving turkey
It’s always been puzzling that on Thanksgiving, a day when Americans are supposed to appreciate all they have in life, we are supposed to eat turkey, a big bird that deserves little to no thanks.
The nicest thing one can say about turkey is that it’s not dry, a compliment that indicates that the bird does not taste like biting into desert sand — how turkey usually is unless it’s brined, basted, buttered to a point, thankfully, beyond resemblance. There are even instances where, in a desperate effort to impart more flavor onto the flavorless bird by deep-frying it, Americans have set their houses ablaze.
Equally frustrating is that there’s a plethora of more delicious meats to choose from. Turkey would make sense if Americans were limited hunters and poor fishermen. But we are far removed from those times and have ample access to lamb, steak, pork, and oceanic jewels like lobster, scallops, and shrimp.
There is, however, a bright side to turkey’s natural blandness. Because turkey lacks so much flavor, Americans have had to create delicious side dishes. It’s not unlike the observation from my mother that the most beautiful people never had to develop resourcefulness, because they are so beautiful. Mashed potatoes and green bean casserole wouldn’t taste as delicious as they do if turkey........





















Toi Staff
Sabine Sterk
Gideon Levy
Penny S. Tee
Mark Travers Ph.d
Gilles Touboul
John Nosta
Daniel Orenstein