Many years ago, when entertaining my then girlfriend (now wife) for our first Valentine’s Day, I spent a considerable amount of time and effort preparing an authentic beef bourguignon.

With more than one bottle poured in during the slow-cooking process, it did not offer the lightness one might desire on such an occasion. After pushing it around the plate for an hour, she was less than delighted to then be presented with pudding – a sherry trifle. In the years since, not unreasonably, she has insisted on planning the menu. I have been left in charge of drink.

For an excellent white wine, I would suggest Bodega del Abad’s San Salvador Godello 2021. A refined Spanish white from Bierzo in northwest Spain, it is made from 100 per cent Godello grapes grown on the 80-year-old granite stones of Valtuille de Arriba. With wonderful aromas of white fruit, it is creamy with an intense finish.........

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