England is now and history. The other day, in the Weald of Kent, now was England and pleasure. We were visiting the Balfour Winery, near Staplehurst, on an enticing midsummer day. This was a quintessential English landscape. To the left, a wood with classically English trees. To the right, a country house. In the distance, an oast house. We were viewing all this from a balcony, after an excellent lunch based on local ingredients, with wine pairings, that I reckon was worth a Michelin star. The scallops were as good as I have ever tasted. The locals are aware of the neighbouring asset: the previous Saturday, the restaurant had served 750 guests.

But the kitchen has a problem. Jake Goodsell, the chef, is only 25. A splendid fellow, he is full of ambition. There must be the likelihood that his fame will spread and that he might come to be recognised as one of the most promising chefs in the country, with the headhunters taking a........

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