Originally reported and written in June 2023, this story has been republished as part of our archival content.

The aroma of hot buttered buns wafts towards you as you enter the iconic setting, a space that seems as old as time itself.

The Irani cafes of India — particularly those in Mumbai — have held a fascinating allure since their inception in the late 19th century. While the antique vintage setting and old-world charm are one of the reasons these cafes are popular, another is the fare of delicacies they put out for anyone who visits.

No one leaves an Irani cafe without pampering their taste buds with the perfectly prepared kheema pao (a dish of mutton mince slowly cooked with spices) or guzzling down bottles of the iconic raspberry soda.

Whilst guests at the local Irani cafe enjoy these treats, we take you back to the spot where our story started — the port of Bushire in Iran.

Often hailed as one of the busiest, the port was an epicentre of trade between the then Bombay and the Persian Gulf. In the 19th century, this grew, and along with an influx of goods, wealthy Persian merchants too began flocking to Mumbai, eventually settling here.

Through time, Mumbai assumed the status of being home to a small Iranian Shia merchant community — who not only introduced the city to their carpets, infrastructure, and mosques but also to their eponymous food and cultural know-how.

While the stories of how Irani cafes were born are numerous, the most popular rendition is of how the Parsis would sit and talk about their lives over cups of tea........

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