The rich, tangy aroma that wafts up when you open a pickle jar takes you straight back to your grandmother’s kitchen. The image of those tired, scalloped hands chopping lemons into thin, even slices with admirable precision; the crackle of mustard seeds, the sting of chilli in the air, the clink of glass jars on stone floors; all of it comes straight back.

In my home state, Kerala, the traditional monsoon pickles were stored in round ceramic jars, called bharanis. They were hidden, sometimes in shaded rooms or behind curtains, for it to ferment and also to save it from kids who just couldn’t wait to sneak a finger in for a taste. This little jar of happiness was another exciting ritual to wait for during the monsoons. The rains were nature’s nudge to start the fermenting season.

Today, when supermarkets stock every flavour year-round, these handmade jars remain mostly as fond memories instead of active practices — made with hands that knew how to listen to the weather, how to trust their gut, and how to feed yours. Here are a few monsoon recipes from across India.

© The Better India