It was 7 a.m. on a foggy summer morning in Salinas when I pulled up to El Charrito for a breakfast burrito. I had a long road ahead of me and my mood matched the gloomy clouds above — that is until I stepped into the modern but otherwise unremarkable-looking Mexican restaurant on one of the town’s main streets. 

I ordered the huevos con chile — eggs cooked in a molcajete salsa — and went back to my car ready to plod south. Upon the first bite, I was struck immediately by the hand-stretched flour tortilla. It was deliciously rich in flavor with a strong chew, a surprising and welcome departure from the typically dry and lifeless flour tortillas I’ve had at countless California restaurants.  

What was wrapped inside also captured me. The chili was spicy and bold, and the entire burrito was drenched in sauce. Unlike the dry breakfast burritos that dominate much of the Bay Area, this burrito was almost sloppy, and the eggs played a supporting role, adding a savory heft to the burrito while allowing the delicious chili to shine. It reminded me of versions I’ve had in New Mexico, the land of perfect breakfast burritos, and was easily the best I’ve had in years.

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There’s consistently a long line for the delicious burritos at El Charrito in Salinas, Calif., seen here on June 27,........

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