One of the best barbecue sandwiches in America is made by an Armenian baker in a ghost kitchen located in a business park outside of Los Angeles.

This basturma-style brisket sandwich is a new take on an old favorite: the pastrami sandwich. More specifically, a smoked pastrami sandwich that has become a favorite of Texas pitmasters over the last decade, including great versions at Roegels Barbecue Co. and Tejas Chocolate & BBQ in greater Houston.

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In Glendale, north of Los Angeles, chef Arthur Grigoryan makes a version that’s smoked for up to 12 hours using cherry wood and then cured with a spice blend inspired by an ancient predecessor of pastrami known as........

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