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Galveston’s beloved pitmaster Leon O’Neal looks to pass the torch

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"Leon's Cut" brisket at Leon's World Finest Bar-B-Que in Galveston

Downtown links at Leon's World Finest Bar-B-Que in Galveston

Downtown links at Leon's World Finest Bar-B-Que in Galveston

Leon's World Finest Bar-B-Que in Galveston serves amazing links.

Leon's World Finest Bar-B-Que in Galveston is for sale.

At 84 years old, Leon O’Neal still rises early, fires up the smokers, and greets the customers who’ve made his Galveston barbecue joint a culinary landmark for more than three decades.

For visitors driving east on Broadway, the pale-yellow clapboard structure and sign announcing “Leon’s World Finest Bar-B-Que” are a way-marker that you’ve arrived on the island. These days, the building also features a prominent “For Sale” sign, alluding to O’Neal’s transition to retirement.

GUIDE: Houston's best barbecue joints

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Until he finds a buyer, though, it’s business as usual for O’Neal. On a recent visit he........

© Houston Chronicle