Beef boudin, cured and smoked ham, duck sandwich, red beans & rice, crawfish cornbread dressing, and sweet and spicy pork gravy on rice at Parish Barbecue, Austin

Owner/pitmaster Holden Fulco at Parish Barbecue, Austin

Pulled duck sandwich at Parish Barbecue, Austin

Brisket boudin at Parish Barbecue, Austin

Parish Barbecue in Austin is the best Houston-style barbecue joint that’s not in Houston.

When I refer to “Houston-style”, I’m talking about the outsized influence that Cajun and Creole cuisines have on the smoked meats of the Bayou City.

Shreveport native and former Houstonian Holden Fulco, owner and pitmaster at Parish Barbecue, has created perhaps the most creative and delicious combination of Texas barbecue and Louisiana cookery on this side of the Sabine River.

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Fulco, 33, grew up hunting and fishing and........

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