It’s not unusual for a restaurant to be successful for 25 years. Many of the restaurants in Delhi’s Connaught Place, Kolkata’s Park Street and Mumbai’s Churchgate Street have lasted for longer. Some opened in the 1950s and 1960s and have chugged on ever since, long after their glory years have passed them by.

And influential hotel restaurants can usually stick around forever: Mumbai’s The Golden Dragon has been going since 1974. Bukhara opened in 1978 in Delhi but is still sold out every night decades later. Dum Pukht opened a decade after Bukhara but is still flourishing 37 years later.

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Nevertheless, everywhere in the world, it is unusual for a restaurant that changed all the rules to still be going after a decade or so. The Ferran Adria version of El Bulli closed while it was still transforming the way we eat. London’s Le Gavroche taught the British how to eat real French food and gave us such great chefs as Marco Pierre White, Pierre Koffman and Gordon Ramsay. Sadly, it closed last year.

Noma is one of the world’s most important restaurants but, its chef-owner Rene Redzepi says that he will have to shut it down soon.

There are rare exceptions. The Fat Duck was as influential as Adria’s El Bulli in transforming the way we looked at........

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