One of my very first media dinners was hosted at Six by Nico’s original Finnieston restaurant almost five years ago.

The theme, Guilty Pleasures, was due to be rolled out in the venue the following week, and we were to be offered a glimpse into the clever, tongue-in-cheek approach to cooking that chef Nico Simeone had built his reputation on.

Taking inspiration from comfort food staples like tinned spaghetti hoops or late-night kebabs, his six-course menu felt fun, fresh, and dynamic, not least because an entirely new one would replace it in six weeks.

Around that time, the Six Company was very much on top of its game, thriving in the space it had carved out for casual fine dining at an attractive price point. With the opening of steak-focused Chateau-X and the charitable Beat 6 in Dennistoun soon to follow, its presence in the city was only growing stronger.

But today, following the news of yet another Glasgow rebrand, a tricky question has risen to the fore. At what point does rapid-fire reinvention start to feel restless instead of visionary?

Six by Nico on Byres road has closed as it undergoes a major rebrand to Lennox, another of the group's brands (Image: Donald Erskine)

I would argue that things really started to ramp up in 2023, when Simeone made the decision to relocate his flagship Six by Nico from Argyle Street to a new, larger site in Merchant City, with a noticeable stylistic shift.

At that point, the group had opened 15 restaurants across the UK and Ireland, and the chef vowed that the move would allow them to introduce two........

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