Wheels over the Valley
Once upon a time, the sound of hooves was the heartbeat of Kashmir’s streets.
The tanga — a horse-drawn carriage — clip-clopped gracefully through narrow lanes, carrying families, traders, and newlyweds wrapped in laughter and conversation. Children ran alongside, waving at the tangawalla who often knew every passenger by name.
And beyond the roads, another rhythm floated across the waters of Dal Lake — the glide of the Shikara. With its bright canopy and slow sway, it wasn’t just a boat; it was a bridge between lives. From ferrying goods to carrying stories, the shikara mirrored Kashmir’s calm spirit.
But those sounds — of hooves and oars — are fading now. The tanga rests in forgotten corners, its wheels stiff with time. The shikara still moves, but mostly for tourists chasing postcards, not........





















Toi Staff
Gideon Levy
Tarik Cyril Amar
Sabine Sterk
Stefano Lusa
Mort Laitner
Mark Travers Ph.d
Ellen Ginsberg Simon
Gilles Touboul
John Nosta