Seeds, schmear, sesame: How a bagel’s toasted crunch that became a reflection of America’s identity

The bagel in America is an immigrant story with a hole in the middle.

It came to America with Eastern European Jews escaping poverty and antisemitism. It landed in New York street carts and neighborhood bakeries. Later, it made its way to supermarket freezer aisles and into the breakfast order of so many every day. And like every food story, it starts with the first bite.

As a layer of crunch prepares your brain for a crusty piece of bread, it’s immediately met by the soft yet dense chew of the inside. Eating the two textures together brings a feeling of joy, along with whatever toppings you’ve added.

A schmear of cream cheese to keep it simple. A flavored spread to add a bit of zest. Or a bagel topped taller than the human mouth........

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