Image by Taylor Rooney.

For decades, I’ve returned to Truro, Massachusetts, drawn by some of the most breathtaking vistas on Cape Cod. I never tire of biking through the dunes, hiking the sandy bluffs of the National Seashore, or watching the sun rise over the tidal flats.

But today, the beaches I once shared with families like mine are being quietly reclaimed by the ultra-wealthy.

This spring we stayed at Zinnia Cottage, one of the iconic Day’s Cottages along Route 6A. These 22 identical flower-named cabins sit right on the bay, so close to the water it feels like the ocean might come in your window. They’ve stood here for over 90 years. I stayed in one 30 years ago with my kids, when even as a single mother I could afford to rent one for a week. These tiny 448-square-foot houses have since been sold as condos—fetching as much as $655,000. In the off-season, we were still able to rent one for $225 per night. Besides a spruced-up kitchen, not much had changed inside.

What was different was the old Days’ Market across the street. Gone was the shelving crammed with rows of games, swim floats, fishing supplies, and staples like Campbell’s soup and Ronzoni spaghetti. In its place, a sleek specialty store, with an........

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