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Felicity Cloake's American food odyssey

13 37
10.06.2025

For her new book, Peach Street to Lobster Lane, British food writer Felicity Cloake cycles across the US from coast to coast in search of a definition for its national cuisine.

Gordon Ramsay famously credits his success in the US to Americans knowing nothing about good food. Felicity Cloake begs to differ.

In her new book, Peach Street to Lobster Lane, the award-winning British food writer sets out to challenge the stereotype of American food as deep-fried and cultureless. "On this trip, I'm determined to find this unicorn, cover it with ketchup and pickles and have it for lunch," she writes.

Over the course of 10 weeks and several thousand kilometres, she cycles coast to coast across the US, discovering independent restaurants, fusion cuisine and an attitude towards food she's seen nowhere else in the world. Her food-filled obsession takes her from San Francisco's most refined sourdough to the home of the hamburger in Columbus, Ohio. Along the way, she explores the source of Tabasco on Avery Island and feasts on crawfish on an accidental stop in Houston.

Her mission? To discover what, if anything, ties American cuisine together and to celebrate the creativity, history and heart she finds everywhere she goes.

We caught up with Cloake to talk about the good, the greasy and the gloriously surprising food that fuelled her adventures.

Why did you decide to write a book about American food?

I don't think my publisher will mind me saying that they were a bit reluctant, because the theme is a bit tricky. If you don't already love America and its cuisine, it's difficult to see beyond the top-line stereotypes of McDonalds, KFC, ridiculous eating competitions and too much on the plate. It doesn't sound very attractive.

World's Table

BBC.com's World's Table "smashes the kitchen ceiling" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.

But I was thinking about the amazing Mexican food and all the different immigrant cuisines there. There's much more of a sense of possibility, fun and flexibility when it comes to cooking in America. They don't feel so hide-bound to tradition for a lot of things as we do in Europe. And that was so exciting to me; uncovering this really playful attitude to food that manifests in potentially fun but unhealthy things like, you know, a cheeseburger that has doughnuts instead of a bun.

There is some fantastic food and fantastic produce in the US, but it just gets sort of swept under the carpet because we only see this cartoonish version. For me, there's always been a glamour about America, which I find hard to shake. It's a sense of "wow, everything's like it is in the movies". And it is!

You spent 10 weeks cycling........

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