We got to the protests around 11:30 in the morning, just as the two opposing sides were working up to the peak of their acrimony. Normally, Shabbat is the day I sleep in late – until noon, if all goes according to plan – but this week my wife had forced me out of bed early to see the balagan (chaos).  

The brouhaha in question was the warring protests over the new Jerusalem café, Basimta. Since it opened six weeks ago, every Shabbat, the café has attracted Haredim, who strongly object to its proprietors’ choice to open on the day of rest. 

The number of Haredim is not large, maybe a few score, but they make their presence felt dramatically. They are all male, and there are lots of children. Latterly, in recent weeks, secular counter-protesters have turned out in roughly equal numbers and commensurate stridency. 

My wife wanted to be at the scene at 9 a.m., when the café opened. But I flatly refused a single digit alarm on a Saturday. Therefore, we arrived late to what, at first sight, appeared to be a clash of two antagonistic groups, crammed into a small alley, and just about held apart by tired and irritated police. From up above, bemused residents watched from their balconies. There were lots of journalists. 

We arrived from the secular side, the front line of which was a vanguard of pink clad activists with placards reading “Freedom from religion, even on Shabbat.” Beyond this secular forward guard was a sea of Haredi black and white. 

On closer inspection, however, there was rather more intermixing than first appeared. Several Haredim had moseyed into the secular camp and were engaged in exchanges of various kinds with their putative opponents. The interlocutors were in pairs or little clusters. Some were vituperative, with raised voices and aggressive gesticulations, but others seemed to be respectful and amiable.

The energy rose with the sun until, practically on the dot of noon, the security forces began to walk the Haredim back. The Pink Front cheered – they had clearly won this battle.

As the Haredim were forced to retreat, the secular activists turned towards Basimta with the intention of imbibing well-earned refreshments, and their........

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