Dissonance is necessary around Easter. Fluffy lambs and chicks are everywhere: on cards and decorations, in countless chocolate forms and adorning every Easter-adjacent craft, toy or activity. But, of course, we also traditionally serve roasted lamb or chicken on Easter Sunday. In some part, this is simply seasonality. We associate gambolling lambs and new chicks with spring. But that apparent seasonality is also something of an untruth: lamb, particularly, is not actually in season at Easter.

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I know, I know, as soon as the days start to brighten, our green and pleasant lands are filled with sentient woolly fluff wobbling about on little legs. But those cartoon-like lambs are far from ready for market. Traditionally-reared British lamb is born in the spring but is not fully grown until autumn. It’s possible to circumvent nature’s plans but this is done by either indoor-rearing or importing the lamb – mostly from New Zealand. Lamb at Easter may feel like a sustainable choice that supports British farming but the truth is a little more complicated.

Conversely, rabbit is a very sustainable meat to eat and available year-round. Which is why I don’t feel completely mad suggesting this fluffily confronting alternative for your Easter celebrations.

While rabbits are abundant in........

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