The first thing visitors notice at Tsomgo Lake today is the water.

At more than 12,000 feet above sea level, the glacial lake reflects the mountains around it. Prayer flags flutter in the wind. Tourists stop for photographs. Yaks wait patiently for riders. 

The scene looks serene today, but less than two decades ago, this Himalayan landmark was struggling under the weight of its own popularity. 

Located about 40 kilometres from Gangtok on the road to Nathu La, Tsomgo Lake — also known as Changu Lake,  is one of Sikkim's most visited destinations. For years, the steady flow of tourists brought livelihoods to local communities. 

But it also brought waste.

Plastic bottles, food wrappers, milk cartons, tetra packs, sewage and animal waste gradually accumulated around the lake. 

Shops lined its edges. Litter found its way into the water. As visitor numbers increased in the early 2000s, concerns grew over the future of a lake that was a tourist attraction, a fragile ecosystem and a critical water source for nearby........

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