Last weekend I struck gold. Where, you ask? Let me direct you to Mumbai’s fabled Mohammed Ali Road, which steps into its festive best every Ramadan. Iftar spreads (the meal eaten by the Muslim community at sunset after they break their day-long fast) colour the alleyways of the Bohri Mohalla, which gets its name from the Dawoodi Bohra community that migrated here from Gujarat and parts of Yemen in the 20th century.

Time has turned the neighbourhood into a poster child of the Ramadan zeitgeist.

Peppered along its lanes you’ll find time-tested eateries, where feasts brew. And behind their doors, I discovered treasure. Come with me and I’ll show you. But I feel compelled to warn you of the sensory overload that will hit you the moment you set foot here. Flavours, aromas, and the sounds of deep-frying will compete for your attention from all sides. It can be baffling.

So we turn to Aditya Lakshay (30), of Khaki Tours, whose experience has made him adept at weaving his way through these khau gallis (food streets). The weekends see Aditya lead heritage walks across the city. He loves garnishing his history anecdotes with interesting trivia.

Explaining the eclectic curation of stops along the Ramadan walk, he says, “We visit around 12 places, alternating between sweet and savoury flavours at each.”

The first stop is Nawab Seekh Corner, where you’ll be feasting on seekh (minced meat that is cooked on skewers) hugged by a paratha (Indian flatbread). This is followed by a surprise at J J Jalebi started by Haji Chhote Khan from Kanpur. Since 1947, they have been serving a hickory-coloured dessert whose name cons guests into believing it’s the jalebi (spiral, crispy orange dessert). But it isn’t.