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For better soups, start in the oven

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28.09.2026

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For better soups, start in the oven

Roast first, simmer later

Published September 28, 2026 10:30AM (EDT)

A version of this recipe first appeared in The Bite, Salon's food newsletter. Sign up for early access to articles like this, plus recipes, food-related pop culture recommendations and conversations about what we're eating, how and why.

For a while, I kept a soup journal.

Not a recipe journal, exactly. More like field notes. If I ate a soup I liked out in the world, I’d jot down what was in it, what the broth tasted like, sometimes sketch the bowl. I just adore the form.

Especially when I lived alone, it was not unheard of for all three meals in a day to be soup. One particularly triumphant day started with congee in Washington, D.C., continued with enchilada soup at an airport Chili’s and ended with pastina back home in my pajamas.

So, in honor of soup season, I’ve decided to spend the next few weeks of “The Bite,” Salon’s food newsletter, teaching what I’ve started referring to in my notebook at Soup School: a loose little series about the patterns that make soup better. We’ll talk about the ingredient your soup is probably missing — vinegar! — plus better soup toppers and, eventually, how to host a soup party.

But lesson one is the foundation for a lot of the soups I make at home: Start in the oven.

I........

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