From Kolkata wunderkind to industry powerhouse, Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s brand turns 25, with its gaze fixed firmly on the future, not the past

Bengal’s Spirit: “This is the first time I’ve created a collection where I… Sorry to say this, but I couldn’t care a f**k about opinions. As you grow older, you realise the only person you need to be kind to is yourself. There’s a Rumi quote I live by: ‘Sell your cleverness and buy bewilderment.’ This collection reflects who I am, not others’ expectations. It’s inspired by the ‘showcase’ found in Indian, particularly Bengali, homes—where everything meaningful is kept, a personal archive defined not by money, but by emotional value,” says Mukherjee. Pic Courtesy/Sunhill Sippy

Sabyasachi Mukherjee has lived many lives in fashion, constantly shifting direction in surprising ways. His work swings between contrasting ideas, often proposing new visions of India that contradict what came before. But behind the brand’s bold face, there’s a man who admits, “I’m a monster sometimes.”

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Mukherjee’s approach to his craft is rooted in an obsessive need for control. “I hate myself for it, but the truth is, I can’t help it,” he admits. It’s not just about the clothes—everything matters. From jewellery and accessories to hair, makeup, music, models, choreography, and styling, he micro-manages every detail of his runway shows. “I don’t hire outside help because I want to maintain my vision. I’d rather tell one authentic story than a million that don’t connect. It’s all or nothing.”

“I’ve always believed that not having money doesn’t mean lacking standards. Growing up in Calcutta, my father never wore a shirt casually—everything had to be just right. There was no ‘casual’ or ‘athleisure.’ That discipline instilled a sense of dignity. The ‘pussy bow’ symbolises propriety. I’m casual by nature, but I value decorum. For me, Sabyasachi isn’t about perfection, but doing things properly, with care and attention,” says Sabyasachi Mukherjee. Pic Courtesy/Dolly Devi

This relentless drive, this refusal to settle for anything less, has defined Mukherjee for over two decades. His singular focus: to place India at the forefront of global luxury. “India is not a third-world economy but a first-world civilisation,” he says. “It is the birthplace of luxury, where it has always belonged.”

After 25 years in fashion, Mukherjee knows exactly what he stands for: “A brand with........

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