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The contested origins of the Texas barbecue revolution

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Snow's BBQ legendary pitmaster, Norma "Tootsie" Tomanetz, right, laughs as she passes by owner Kerry Bexley, left, carrying coals to the barbecue pits to keep them at the right temperature as she smokes brisket, pork steak, chicken, ribs and sausage.

Texans love to argue about barbecue. Point or flat? Sauce or no sauce? And the biggest debate of them all: What’s the best barbecue joint in the state?

These topics inevitably come up when standing in line with fellow fanatics at a popular barbecue joint. Indeed, some of my most enduring friendships were forged while waiting in line at places like Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor.

And when the line stretches long enough, the chatter often drifts into deeper territory – the history, myths, and turning points that shaped the smoked meat traditions of the Lone Star State.

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GUIDE: Houston's best barbecue joints

One such niche topic is the origin of the current revolution in Texas barbecue, commonly referred to as the craft barbecue........

© Houston Chronicle