Dr. Ab Ahad’s Shawl and Shawl Baffs of Kashmir is a monumental work that brings to light the forgotten histories and rich traditions surrounding the Kashmiri shawl. In his meticulous exploration, Dr. Ahad presents the shawl not merely as an item of luxury or an external import but as an emblem of Kashmir’s cultural identity and a testament to the brilliance of its artisans. His research and narrative offer a profound understanding of the origins, development, and cultural significance of the Kashmiri shawl, challenging long-established perceptions and providing new insights into the region’s artistic and historical fabric.

The book is a scholarly endeavor that brings together historical, cultural, and artisanal perspectives to provide a comprehensive view of the Kashmiri shawl’s evolution. Dr. Ahad’s work is not just a study of textiles; it is a cultural excavation that uncovers the layers of history, heritage, and pride embedded in the craft. The book stands as a corrective to the narratives previously dominant in the literature on the subject, offering a fresh and indigenous perspective on the origins and development of the Kashmiri shawl.

The first chapter, “Birth of an Occupation,” is a striking introduction to Dr. Ahad’s central thesis: the Kashmiri shawl is an indigenous product of the Kashmir Valley, born from the land, its people, and their artistic ingenuity. This is a departure from earlier authors like Frank Ames and Parviz Nemati, who often attributed the origins of the shawl to foreign influences, whether from Persia, Central Asia, or other parts of the world. These scholars posited that the shawl was an import brought to Kashmir by external forces, a view that has shaped popular perceptions for........

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