The central Baghdad square where Iraqi Prime Minister Mohammed Shia al-Sudani is about to give a speech on tourism is surrounded by exactly the kinds of historic buildings tourists will want to see when they visit: Two centuries-old mosques, one of the Arab world's oldest universities, an 800-year-old castle, the oldest church in the city, and the former seat of Baghdad's government during the days of the Ottoman Empire.

But the area around Saray Square also bears the scars of Iraq's more recent history, which has kept tourists away for years. Just down the road from the square is Muttannabi Street. In 2007, a car bomb killed 30 people there and destroyed much of the thoroughfare famous for its booksellers. In 2019, nearby Rasheed Street became a dangerous frontline where demonstrators and security forces battled during anti-government protests.

But things have changed a lot in the last five years, with Iraq experiencing a long period of comparative calm and security. That's why on this evening in late February, Iraqi officials are celebrating the start of Baghdad's year as the Arab Capital of Tourism 2025, a title bestowed annually by the Arab Tourism Organization, part of the Arab League. Rows of white armchairs for foreign dignitaries have been arranged in front of a large screen, floodlights blaze above, drones hum overhead, and later a band seated on stage will play Iraqi folk songs.

"Thanks to the sacrifices of its people, Iraq has reclaimed its rightful position as an influential nation, attracting tourists from around the world to experience its rich civilizations," Iraqi Prime Minister al-Sudani proclaimed as he received a large, symbolic key from dignitaries representing Oman, the 2024 title holder.

As with

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