A samba queen's guide to Rio de Janeiro
Mayara Lima is famous for her hypnotising samba style. Here, she shares the best samba experiences in Rio, from traditional school events to samba circles.
Brazilians often say that "everything ends in samba", but perhaps it would be more accurate to say that samba never ends – at least not in Rio de Janeiro, one of the places where the musical and dance genre is said to have originated. Aside from providing entertainment, samba has played a crucial role in shaping Rio's lifestyle, including taking a central role in its Carnival celebration – the most renowned in the world.
More than just a genre, samba is a cultural phenomenon that helps drive the economy, with more than 150 official rodas de samba (samba circles) across the city. At these lively gatherings, musicians sit in a circle while crowds of hundreds – or even thousands – of spectators sing along, creating an electrifying atmosphere. Meanwhile, escolas de samba (community-based "samba schools" that organise the world-famous Carnival parade with its giant floats and thrilling costumes) elect a rainha da bateria (queen of the drums) who leads the school's bateria (drum section), captivating the crowd and forging a powerful connection between the musicians and the audience.
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Mayara Lima is one of Rio's most popular samba queens, having claimed the title of drum queen in 2023. She currently represents the Paraíso do Tuiuti samba school, where she gained national recognition for her mesmerising samba style.
But the energy of samba can be felt in Rio all year round. Even outside Carnival season, events like samba school street rehearsals offer a vibrant and immersive experience. We asked Mayara Lima, a rainha de bateria (drum queen) at Pararaíso do Tuiti, one of Rio's most renowned samba schools, how to experience the city's rich samba culture during Carnival and beyond.
Lima knew from an early age that dance was her calling, and she joined a samba school at age 10. "I had studied other rhythms, such as ballet and jazz, but I decided to be fully dedicated to samba," she says.
Lima is a proud carioca – a Rio native. "To me, Rio is far more than just a city," she says. "What makes Rio so unique is the way it combines breathtaking natural beauty – its beaches and trails – with the energy of a vibrant, urban metropolis, where every neighbourhood has its own distinct charm and history." She adds: "[But] you can't talk about Rio without talking about samba, can you? Their histories are intertwined."
Ahead of the 2025 Carnival, which runs from 28 February to 8 March, here are five of Lima's favorite samba experiences in Rio.
Rio's samba school parade is a global spectacle every Carnival season. Of the more than 70 samba schools, only a select few belong to the elite group that takes centre stage, parading down the Sambódromo Marquês de Sapucaí during the festivities – but the schools promote several events during the year that take place in the quadras (samba school headquarters), which play a key role in strengthening ties between the schools and the local community.
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Rio's music scene is about more than just samba. "Baile Charme, an old-school R&B event, under the Madureira viaduct every Saturday [starts] at 20:00 and ends at the sunrise at 05:00," says Lima. This event has been going strong for over 20 years and remains a huge success, attracting thousands of people every week. "It's a great way to see another side of Rio's music scene."
Cariocas and visitors of all ages come to samba schools to watch rehearsals, participate in feijoadas (a traditional feast of black beans and pork) and enjoy live performances of the school's samba anthem; a new one is chosen each year to serve as the narrative musical thread for each performance.
"There are 12 main samba........
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