This fall, for the first time in four years, meat will be back on the menu at New York City’s legendary Eleven Madison Park restaurant. It’s a notable about-face for chef Daniel Humm, who had famously eliminated all animal products from his menu—and evangelized a new way forward for fine dining—when the restaurant reemerged after the pandemic.

Humm had something of an environmental awakening during Eleven Madison Park’s pandemic closure. He realized, he said at the........

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