Many years ago, sometime after Ronald Reagan replaced Pat Brown as governor of California, I was driving up the coast from Los Angeles to San Francisco and visited Hearst Castle, William Randolph Hearst's epic mansion in San Simeon. It was state property then, donated by the Hearst family, and the uniformed guide struck me as knowledgeable, competent and proud of her work.

Some time later, I wrote articles arguing that California, not yet the highest-tax state but never a tax haven either, was proof that big government could provide competent services. For a generation under Govs. Earl Warren, Goodwin Knight, Pat Brown and Ronald Reagan, the California state government built thousands of miles of freeway, first-rate state universities and a whole archipelago of community colleges, and had begun to reduce smog in the LA basin.

No one would write such an article about California today, except maybe in a humor magazine. The public sector that helped make California the nation's most populous state in 1963 is today producing a dystopia that has tens of thousands more people leaving than arriving in the once promised land of California every year.

Even as California-based tech companies have reached a market capitalization of $1 trillion, its state and local governments have sunk to levels of incompetence associated with underdeveloped countries.

California today "has the nation's highest cost-of-living adjusted poverty rate, the highest levels of functioning illiteracy, and the worst housing affordability in the continental US," writes Joel Kotkin, who has been chronicling California's highs and lows for more than 40........

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