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Seychelles Mahé – The Plus Side of Paradise

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yesterday

Supporting the narrative of a “rare, curated paradise” rather than a volume-driven destination, Seychelles deliberately limits mass tourism. With just under 400,000 visitors in 2025, this restraint is not incidental, but a core part of its luxury positioning and national policy.

With that in mind, it comes as no surprise that Israeli travelers are among the most welcomed to this blissfully secluded archipelago in the Indian Ocean. Seychelles clearly identifies Israel as a strategic tourism market. Its hospitality leaders seem to have understood us with remarkable precision. Israelis travel often and spontaneously, spend generously on boutique luxury, and favor short, direct access to true “escape destinations.” For a small, high-value destination like Seychelles, this is pure gold.

And yet, one cannot ignore the contrast. How many global travelers are willing to pay a fare comparable to a long-haul journey to New York or Bangkok, only to find themselves on a six-and-a-half-hour narrow-body flight, far from the comfort typically associated with such distances? I know I did, alongside Israeli families on a full night flight operated by a wet-leased Smartwings aircraft, a Czech carrier, on behalf of the national airline Air Seychelles, which currently offers one direct weekly flight from Israel.

We landed at first light in Mahé, Seychelles’ largest island. In its capital, Victoria, morning breaks over the Fish Market in salt and sunlight. Here, the ocean’s quiet generosity gleams on crushed ice, while the air carries stories of tides before the city fully wakes. It didn’t take us long to embrace the tropical weather and become acquainted with the magical atmosphere that enveloped us.

In the heart of Victoria, the Seychelles National Botanical Gardens bloom in quiet tropical grace, where tall palms sway and the Coco de Mer trees scent the air. At the garden’s edge, giant tortoises move slowly through the shade – ancient, gentle, and unhurried, reflecting the island’s rhythm.

A boat tour to Sainte Anne Marine National Park, with its six islands close to Mahé, including the small, marvelous Moyenne Island,  is an enjoyable experience. Diving sites reveal coral reefs and additional surprises. During this relaxing boat trip, my most vivid memory from my first visit to the Seychelles 30 years ago resurfaced. It was my meeting with a British gentleman, Brendon Grimshaw. At that time, as Head of Public Relations for Hilton Hotels Israel, I led the first-ever press trip from Israel to the islands, following the launch of Air Seychelles’ inaugural route to Ben Gurion Airport. Together with leading food and travel writers, we explored the archipelago, including a visit to Moyenne Island. Grimshaw, a journalist, lived there alone, surrounded by numerous tortoises. A  surreal, almost hallucinatory scene. Over a glass of beer in his small yard beneath coconut trees, he shared his extraordinary life story. When he told us he had purchased Moyenne Island in the early 1960s for £8,000, we thought he was joking. He wasn’t. The journalist from Dewsbury, England, moved there with nothing but a dream and lived on the island until his passing 14 years ago. Moyenne was close enough to Mahé for supplies, yet a world apart. For my money, Grimshaw was the happiest person on earth. Now, standing by his grave on this paradise island, I felt deeply moved. Today, Moyenne has become a picturesque national park  and I strongly urge you to visit it.

At Vallée de Fruits, the visionary initiative of Marco Kastner, sun-ripened mangoes, bananas, and passion fruit flourish in vibrant abundance. An invitation to experience Seychelles’ originality through the poetry of its soil. Vallée de Fruits is far more than a fruit farm; it is one of the most compelling agro-tourism concepts in Seychelles. “Vallée de Fruits is a response to a paradox: despite Seychelles’ lush environment, much of the food served in hotels is imported,” the 33-year-old, enthusiastic Kastner tells me while serving an organic fruit platter in a Japanese sushi style. “I set out to change that by building the island’s first organic fruit plantation dedicated to agro-tourism.” Kastner revealed that he entered the 2025 Seychellois presidential race but withdrew before the final ballot. “That was just planting the seeds for the future,” he says. I wouldn’t be surprised if one day he actually runs the country.

Kastner’s striking Coco de Mer artwork, a sculptural tribute to the island, overlooks the gently curved, breathtaking Anse Barbarons bay, where our hospitable sanctuary awaited: the Avani Plus resort. Here, silver sand stretches into a hushed turquoise horizon, where one of the island’s longest beaches meets languid pools and sunsets dissolve softly into the Indian Ocean.

The Avani+ Barbarons Seychelles Resort was completely transformed and reopened last summer after several years of closure for extensive renovations. The transformation goes far beyond refurbishment. A completely new wing reshapes the experience, designed around water, flow, and openness, creating a more contemporary, lifestyle-driven zone within the property.

We stayed in a pampering chalet, part of this recent transformation. A truly recommended experience. Waking each morning facing Barbarons Bay, breathing the fresh air while lying on a soft bean bag lounger, with the ocean stretching endlessly ahead, is a moment to be cherished forever.

We also enjoyed the spa – a tranquil, forest-shaded sanctuary, unwinding with serene, rejuvenating treatments. Simply paradise.

“This resort is one of the most iconic in Seychelles, even before the airport was inaugurated,” reveals Naji Esta, Country Manager of Minor Hotels in Seychelles. “It has been operating under the Avani brand since 2014. During COVID, the owners offered it to the government as a gesture, and after the plague it remained closed for three years during the extensive redevelopment, backed by a $70 million investment. We currently offer 180 rooms, with plans to expand to 260. The outcome is truly unique.”

Esta, no stranger to tropical resorts, previously held managerial roles in the Caribbean. When I ask what sets the property apart, he explains:

“One of the main reasons to stay with us at Barbarons is not only the beach, but also one of Mahé’s largest pools. At the same time, the resort offers different areas and pockets to enjoy. Whether you seek serenity at the far end of the beach, a lively atmosphere around the pool with music and cocktails, or a quieter sanctuary in the new wing. You can find it all here.”

I was intrigued by  “+” in the Avani name. As part of Thailand-based Minor Hotels, Avani Hotels & Resorts sits in the group’s upscale, lifestyle-driven tier, bridging contemporary design and relaxed luxury between the more premium Anantara and the design-led brands. While Anantara represents immersive, destination-driven luxury, Avani is defined by modern, social, lifestyle experiences.

“The plus indicates an elevated tier, a step-up version,” Esta explains. “Upgraded rooms and suites, enhanced design, a stronger resort feel, and more experiential elements – wellness, activities, immersive touches, and richer gastronomy. It’s about the depth of the experience.”

At the heart of the culinary offering, Executive Chef Robin Etienne brings a refined, quietly confident touch, translating Seychelles’ rich Creole heritage into vibrant, contemporary plates. Working closely with local ingredients, his cuisine feels both grounded and elevated. A seamless expression of place that adds depth and authenticity to the resort’s easygoing rhythm.

We experienced his exquisite gastronomy at the elevated “Somewhere” restaurant. When he joined us for a pleasant hour during dessert, I expressed my desire to revisit breadfruit. One of Seychelles’ most emblematic ingredients. Memories from my first visit to Mahé resurfaced. Once considered a survival food, breadfruit is now elevated by chefs into a versatile canvas, absorbing spices, carrying sauces, and anchoring dishes with a strong sense of place. Chef Robin just smiled.

On our final dinner, a surprise awaited us: a specially prepared breadfruit gnocchi. It was a divine experience. A quiet expression of Seychelles itself, rooted and generous. What a way to conclude our journey in Mahé.

“Our main markets are Germany and the Gulf Emirates, but the Israeli market is one of our top priorities,” concludes the ever-smiling Esta before our departure. “We see strong demand from Israel, especially from groups, and these are very encouraging statistics. We hope this demand will continue to grow.”

Being one of these visitors, I can only wholeheartedly agree.


© The Times of Israel (Blogs)