Whenever I have time and the workday allows, I like to get breakfast at Gratziani, a small café on Yehuda ha-Levi. I usually order an afurre (cappuccino) and burrecas pinuki*, pampered burrecas, savory Balkan pastries filled with trine, tomatoes, a boiled egg, and pickles. I just say “ragil” (normal or usual), and they prepare it for me.

They have their own kitchen, where all the cakes and sandwiches they sell are made. Every client there seems to be a regular, and if you come by later, you’ll still see the same faces you saw........

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